First Chapter
About 2020SS Collection
12.1.2019

A designer interview that focuses on the creator's philosophy behind his creation.

This article features RIPVANWINKLE, which was founded 22 years ago.

Unwavering pursuit of authenticity and manufacturing have won a lot of support from fans.

For the first chapter, we dove in and talked about the latest collection.

Ono Masao

Mr.Masao Ono established "Rip Van Winkle" in 1997.

In the era of everyday change, classical and contemporary fusion of tradition and newness comes a harmony of calmness and style is the brand philosophy. The work develops emphasis on the mood and idea. Materials are carefully examined as they continue to create genuine pieces in excellent craftsmanship.

 


 

Kenzo Yasuda

He is very familiar with RIPVANWINKLE as it is a brand that he has been working on for a very long time.

He is the editor-in-chief, working mainly on the behind the scenes work.

 


 

"In addition to the sporty taste that RIPVANWINKLE has been known for, this collection incorporates work elements."

The RIPVANWINKLE 2020 Spring Summer Collection was held this August.

At the exhibition showroom held at an office in Daikanyama, the slides of the Lookbook photos were projected on the large wall surface that conveyed the images of the next season.

We interviewed designer Mr Ono about the next season while checking out the new items.

He eagerly explained details of what kind of collection the 2020 SS season will be.

The interviewer this time is Yasuda, who has been in charge of buying RIPVANWINKLE for a long time.

--First, please tell us about this spring and summer collection.

In addition to the military and sports tastes that RIPVANWINKLE has been very known for, we have added a work taste and element to this collection.

For example, this apron is a typical item but we developed it by mixing these elements into the item expressed in a conventional RIPVANWINKLE style.

We don't set a specific theme for each collection every time but for this season, we decided to create something like a hidden theme.

The TACTICAL APRON is an apron type BAG that can be used flexibly in a work style that was introduced this year.

Style proposal incorporating standard sporty taste and elements.
The items which incorporated the relaxed element in a light and active style was also conspicuous.

In addition to the sporty taste mentioned above, the military items which are the foundation of the brand has been released with a new interpretation.
The mix style that we have been continuously working on is also presented with an unexpected and fresh combination.

--- What is the new proposal in this collection?

This new proposal for the collection are items that incorporates a work taste such as an apron or a vest.

Also, as a challenge for this collection, we are making new items with a big silhouette and with a RIPVANWINKLE interpretation.

I think it fits well with the silhouette and taste that I have proposed so far but it is a part of a new proposal in addition to the conventional taste.

I think you can feel the newness from the fact that it has not been in the image or style of RIPVANWINKLE so far.

--As you mentioned, there are many people who want items that are loose in size, can you further elaborate on that?

The pants are made thin as usual, but we were conscious of the size of tops and outerwear and made it a little more looser than usual.

There is also a reason for developing silhouette items that create A-line.

As for the size, there is a trend of the season but there are more and more people who choose one size bigger. For example, Tornado T-shirts are set a little bigger than before.

However, it is not necessary to make it too big so we consider the balance with what we have proposed so far and make new tweaks within the range so that customers can wear them with no trouble.

This item has a big silhouette that was created this season.
It doesn't just follow trends as it has a persistent RIPVANWINKLE style.

--- What are the newly made items in this collection?

BJ Tech*1 jacket and coat are newly made.

I have been using BJ Tech and have made blousons previously but this is the first time I have made a jacket or coat with a rough image.

BJ Tech itself has not been used for several years but we have received many requests from customers and have been re-appearing in the collection since last autumn and winter.

However, instead of simply making the same thing, we started using Teflon coated hydrogen repellent material from 19-20 AW so that these items can cope with bad weather and climate change of the season.

--When was the water repellent function added?

Originally, I was thinking of adding the water-repellent function to the fabric but BJ Tech is product dyed and even if the water-repellent function is added, it comes off so it was quite difficult to realize this idea.

Since the 19-20 AW season, we have added a water-repellent Teflon coating to create a material that can withstand the bad weather that RIPVANWINKLE is aiming for, we are expanding the number of models of items using BJ Tech for 20 SS.

The style that seems to match parachute pants with mountain parka is a style that I kept changing and I thought that it was an indispensable material, I realized what I really wanted to do was to use something that I could understand.

*1 BJ Tech is a material developed by fabric company Komatsu Seiren (Company name changed to Komatsu Matere Co., Ltd.). It is a special processed material (BJ stands for The BRAIN of JAPAN) that dyes polyester nylon material that does not dye normally at high pressure.

A material that gives a unique look by dyeing something daring not to be dyed with advanced technology. RIPVANWINKLE uses a hydrogen repellent Teflon coated material that can withstand adverse weather and climate change.

This is a new product using BJ Tech which is one that Mr. Ono is very fond of.
In addition to the standard style, this season's casual jackets and coats are new to the lineup.

--- Are there any reprinted or updated items in this collection?

There are crew-neck cut sew, cardigan and pants.

The cardigan was available 2 ~ 3 seasons ago and has a new colour but the thread and gauge have been reproduced as they were at that time.

The pants are based on the ones that were developed in 18SS and has been updated with a new prestige French Terry material, the cut sew has released a model named "SOLID" for the first time in several years.

-- Are there any rules for the timing of reprint or update?

Once in a few years, we reprint and update old models like this.

We feel that customers are looking for certain pieces based on the reaction of the store. It's the kind of integration that we need to have in our current mood when designing.

A cardigan with unique cutting that is reproduced without changing the thread and gauge.
The "NASU" colour, which was not available at the time, is now available as a new colour.

A cut sew with the name "SOLID" that has not existed for several years.
It is the first time in a long time that it has been developed in SMOKE GRAY, KHAKI and BLACK.

CROSS JERSEY PANTS is a newly developed prestige French Terry material.
The finest compact fleece pile knitted with the highest gauge is comfortable to wear for spring and summer.

--- Do you have any items you personally like or would like to recommend in this collection?

I myself have been particularly fond of wearing it for the past few seasons but I would like to recommend leather items in general.

I have been developing leather items since RIPVANWINKLE started and I don't have to go back to the starting point for them, in addition, I often wear leather items.

There are quite a lot of items that have the taste of leather even if you don't wear them, almost like you are unconsciously choosing them.

In addition, I feel that the presence of leather wear has become a little weak in the fashion scene these days.

One of the reasons is that it takes time but when we start to make a collection, the first thing we plan is leather.

As a brand, I want to recommend it because I am very particular about leather.

These pants have already arrived as a pre-collection item.
This is a standard item from the brand that gives a strong masculine look.

This leather item is recommended by Mr Ono.
This is a gem of work filled with attention to details.

Mr Ono and the 20 SS Collection

 

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