DEVOA Designer Interview
The present and origin of DEVOA shown by two contrasting materials.
What is the challenge for the 2022SS collection?
2022.1.14

This is an interview project with a designer that focuses on the philosophy of the creator and looks behind the creation process.

In this interview, we talk about DEVOA's 2022SS collection.

We interviewed the designer, Mr. Nishida, about the production process and the story behind the creation.

Daisuke Nishida

After working as a sports instructor, he founded the brand in 2005.

The brand was founded in 2005 after working as a sports instructor.

The brand's patterns and high quality manufacturing, based on his own experience and knowledge, have gained the support of core fashion freaks in Japan and abroad.

 


 

Based in FASCINATE, where she works in the store as a salesperson and also as a media editor.

 


 

22SS collection look.

--- The 22 SS collection revolved around two contrasting styles: a sports style using Schoeller's high-performance materials and a classic style using natural materials.
With that in mind, first of all, please tell me about the overall characteristics of this season.

The main feature of this collection is that the fabrics have opposite atmospheres, but by mixing and matching them, the aim is to discover a new style with the characteristics of each fabric.

--- This is the first time that you have created a collection with so many different tastes within a single collection.
Why did you choose this structure?

We wanted to propose a styling mix of the different atmospheres that each material has, so we have divided the products into different categories.


As for the EXIST items, many of them express DEVOA's own philosophy.


In addition to functions such as water repellency and breathability, the thickness of the material and its function are used for different parts of the human body, making use of my own experience as a wrestling and sports instructor.


Our products are not a patchwork of natural materials, but are made using only high performance materials, sewing machines and specialist materials such as rubber.

--- You said that you "tried to fuse the two styles into one styling, not separately", why did you try this new proposal and how did you come to it?

The reason for making it was to realize something that could not be done only with natural fibers, and to challenge the composition only with high-functional materials by reviewing the field in which I am good at essentially.


In terms of sewing, there are many special materials, such as bonding materials of high performance and natural fibre, and the back side is made of natural material. It was a great learning experience for me.


We have been using high performance materials for many years, but now we have developed a pattern that reflects our own anatomical way of thinking and changes in body balance without exaggerating.


We have also tried our hand at some unique gimmicks such as the A.V.C sleeve.


The A.V.C sleeves are not a functional suggestion, but a suggestion to influence and change the balance.

For 22SS, the focus is on items created with high-functional materials and natural materials. It proposes to mix two contrasting items.

--- The item made of high performance material is named "DEVOA EXIST".
The word "EXIST" means "to be, to appear, to be alive", what was your intention?

Today's sporting brands offer an unbeatable performance (balance between price and quality) in a variety of individual products.


It is a challenge for me to condense the features of DEVOA and to create a product with only high performance materials under the title of EXIST.


It was also a challenge for me to create a product that reflects the philosophy of DEVOA while understanding my own origin.


It was a challenge for me to create a product that reflects the philosophy of DEVOA while understanding the origin of the product. We thought it was necessary to create a balance between the ideas and philosophy of DEVOA and the styling.


To mix natural and high performance materials in the styling is DEVOA's EXIST.

--- What do you find attractive about Schoeller's materials?
And what is the position of the high performance material items in this collection?

Schoeller's fabrics, as well as other high performance fabrics, are often based on natural structures and functions.


For example, the C-CHANGE fabric mimics the temperature regulation of a pine cone, changing the density of the fabric depending on the temperature for ventilation and heat retention. We believe that this is what sets DEVOA apart from other synthetic fabrics.


The high performance fabrics we use at DEVOA are very different and more expensive than the more expensive natural fabrics, but we feel that the performance is overwhelming.


I don't have a specific position within DEVOA, but I feel that I have been able to express some of the philosophies and characteristics that have come from my own experiences.

In "DEVOA EXIST", Mr. Nishida's origin and the philosophy of DEVOA are strongly reflected in his works. Each material is carefully selected by Mr. Nishida for its function, and is made of the finest materials.

--- I would also like to ask you about the natural fibre fabrics in the 22SS collection.
In the 21SS collection, the lightness of the spring/summer fabrics was very impressive.
With the recent climate change, I feel that the concept of "weight" and "temperature" of clothes has changed considerably.
How do you perceive this change?

In reality, I feel that the temperature of the seasons is changing a little bit.


I think the change in climate has a big impact, but before that I think it's because I'm looking for lighter materials and more comfortable clothes.

--- Each season, DEVOA's collections are created with an emphasis on the quality of the materials and the expression of the textures.
What was the most important aspect of this season's fabrics, or what was the most difficult aspect to express?

Spring and summer materials are always a problem. The thinner and finer the fabric or yarn, the more expensive it becomes.


This is because the performance of the material is generally difficult to convey in many cases.


We are still learning to find the right balance between these two factors, but we try to make the best use of the characteristics of the material and to keep the quality that is possible for DEVOA.


There are many technical terms and names used to describe the texture and other aspects that are not visible to the eye, so it is difficult to describe them in writing.

For the works made of natural materials, there were many works that took advantage of the characteristics of the materials to create rich textures and details that showed the traces of handwork.

--- The colors of the items have been used since 21 SS as an overall atmosphere, but the subdued colors of beige and brown seem to be the focal point.
Which colors are the focal point of your collection?

At DEVOA, we tend to use black throughout the season, it's easy to change the mood in the spring/summer season when we use lighter materials, so we naturally started to use brighter shades.


We didn't create this collection as a point of reference, but I think it is a season that can be styled in a whole range other than black.

--- Looking at the individual fabrics, we were also impressed by the use of patterned fabrics such as block checks, stripes and jacquards in 22SS.
What kind of atmosphere do you think patterned fabrics add to the collection?

In many cases, the fabric is simply dyed from the yarn and the structure of the fabric structure allows us to imagine the colours that will be combined, so we are not aware of the pattern.


Sometimes the result is exactly what I want, but sometimes the colour expression is not what I imagined.


It's difficult to explain in writing, because the landing point of a collection is often based on a feeling.

In addition to the subdued colors of brown and beige, the fabrics with various expressions, such as jacquard check patterns, are also noteworthy.

--- Which fabrics in this season's collection did you personally like or enjoyed designing?

In the spring and summer we use silk a lot, so this time we used wild silk again.


I think I have learned a lot from this project. The wild silk we used is completely different from the one we used last year in terms of country of production, yarn thickness and firmness. The new fabric is dry to the touch, washable, antibacterial, breathable and has a rich surface.

The wild silk fabric is one of Mr. Nishida's own favorites. The material has an impressive dull luster and shade with a sense of luxury.

--- We have two looks, one shot in the studio and one in the city.
You haven't shot in the city since the 14SS video in Paris. Why did you choose this city location this time?

We decided to shoot against an urban backdrop, not just as a simple styling suggestion for a mix of natural fibres and high performance materials, but to create an atmosphere where the natural and the mechanical are mixed together in a chaotic world.


We shot at night, but there was hardly any traffic, and the empty office blocks at night made us feel like we were shooting on a set.

This look was shot outdoors at night. The atmosphere is a mixture of natural and mechanical aspects.

--- The effects of the new COVID-19 situation are still strong, but I think they have subsided a little, and people are gradually returning to normalcy.


Have these changes in social conditions affected your state of mind and the production of your collection?

I don't see any relationship or influence between COVID-19 and the content of the collection.


I feel that my age and the changes in my way of thinking have had a greater influence than the changes in my environment.


The balance of fitting and the characteristics of the materials. have had a big influence.


I feel that there are fewer barriers between styles in fashion today than there were a few years ago. I think this has influenced the styling of the collection.

--- What are your prospects for future overseas exhibitions?

At the moment we are seeing on the news that the virus is spreading much more outside of Japan.


We are only asking for a unified global vaccine passport and other political measures, but we are always up for a challenge when the quarantine period is over and brands and buyers can come to Paris.


We always hope that you can feel our products in your hands, because we feel that our clothes are a brand whose performance is difficult to convey in images.

--- Through this season's collection, is there anything you would like to tell the fans of DEVOA's work?

First of all, we would like to thank our fabric makers, our sewers, our buyers, all the people involved in DEVOA and our customers for allowing us to continue to producing clothes.


The brand has a lot to offer, but we hope that you will pick up DEVOA's clothes as you discover them in your daily life.


It would be great if you could cherish the momentary colour of your life, even if your daily life changes, and if you could cherish fashion in your life with confidence. I will continue to work as hard as I can.


Thank you for reading till the end.

--- Thank you very much.



22SS Collection Look images