This is a designer interview project that focuses on the idea of the creator and focuses on the background of creation.
This time, it is about the 2021 SS collection of DEVOA.
This collection was presented in the corona disaster. We spoke with designer Nishida about the production process, the story behind the creation, and the present and future.
Raised in Nagasaki Prefecture.
After working as a sports instructor, he founded the brand in 2005.
Patterns and high-quality manufacturing is based on his own experiences and knowledge, attracting the support of core fashion lovers from both Japan and overseas.
He is the editor-in-chief, working mainly on the behind the scenes work.
He worked as a stage and advertisement photographer before joining the company in March 2019.
Materials distributed at the 21 SS collection exhibition.
It was put in a japanese paper case and included all fabric samples.
--- The materials I received at the exhibition were very elaborate from the case, and I could feel the spirit of Mr. Nishida who considers the people and organizations involved as one team. Please tell me what kind of idea and thought you made it.
In this exhibition, we introduced products by remote explanation to overseas stores in particular.
To this end, we started the production process with the aim of providing a product description while actually touching the fabric.
I didn't mean to explain it remotely, but when I thought about what I can do now, I came to the idea that I should convey the product and consideration as much as possible, so I made this swatch.
This year, the exhibition will be held only in Japan. She said she was also confused by her first environment.
--- Paris men's Fashion Week was cancelled due to the COVID19 disaster, and 21 SS held an exhibition only in Japan.
Did you find it difficult to tell those who can't come to the exhibition?
We did everything we could, but we couldn't do as much as we could to actually let everyone see the product and talk about it, so I think both our suppliers and we felt it was difficult for each other to have an exhibition in a situation where they couldn't actually see the product.
However, this is not limited to the fashion industry, and I think every industry feels and is affected.
---Various aspects have been affected by the pandemic. Have you changed your approach to fashion and your way of thinking about creation due to changes in your lifestyle?
We are focusing more than ever on natural fibers with antibacterial properties.
I think it is common for fashion design to read the trend of the world and the customers' mood from half a step ahead to one step ahead in order to realize daily discoveries and enjoyment, but I feel that my lifestyle is changing every day, including making masks this spring and summer, and I think I am influenced by many things.
From next season, not only price and industry, but also antibacterial fiber will be released in the market.
--- Have you already started developing such materials?
At present, DEVOA does not develop antibacterial materials using only synthetic fibers, but considering the current situation and future needs, we feel the need to consider such materials in the future.
However, I think the most important thing is not to use simply processed fabric, but to combine something as DEVOA, and to create products with the characteristics of the brand with enjoyment on the production side.
--- I saw instagram, and it was collaborated with foreign artists.
Please tell us about the background of your collaboration, your relationship with the artist, how you feel about it, and what you think.
The staff who is in charge of overseas sales of DEVOA is also the event organizer of overseas artists, so I was introduced to them.
The participating artists are Constantine Skourlis and Dafin Antoniadou.
Constantine is a musician, composer and producer from Athens, Greece, who creates musical influences using various instruments such as guitars, orchestral instruments and synthesizers.
Please listen to his debut album 'Hades (Bedouin Records)' and 'Eternal Recurrence (Bedouin Records)'
Dafin Antoniadou is an active choreographer and performer himself, and seems to be performing live with Constantine.
I feel that her movements are an expression of her own philosophy and not something that anyone can express.
---When I saw the title [Echoes of an Inner Universe], I felt that it might be a part that fits Mr. Nishida's creative philosophy.
In this collaboration, I think they made an excellent expression by understanding the intention of DEVOA well.
I am looking forward to seeing them in Japan in the future.
This season, we are pursuing a material that is lighter and has a unique look.
This season, they are pursuing lightness. Even though it is made of firm fabric, the item with a light feel stands out.
--- Expanding the scope of what you can do in creating your work is a pride of the designer, it is also fun of create. What was your intention and idea for this collection?
One of the things I try to consider every time I make a spring and summer collection is that the item can be easily washed by hand and the ventilation when wearing it. In addition to that, this time I focused on the lightness of the material, which is one of the big characteristics.
Because it is very difficult to make a light material while keeping the quality of the fabric with natural fiber.
In addition, adding unique texture and processing while maintaining good ventilation and tear strength is not easy, including cost balance, and it is a part that always worries me.
At 21 SS, I think I was able to do my best at the moment.
A cotton polyester fabric made of Fariello Salty. The unique expression is worth seeing.
---You said that you would consider the design from the characteristics and features of the fabric. How did you make use of it in your work?
As for the cotton polyester material, I asked Faliero Sarti in Italy to make it.
This material is woven with a high density of fine threads, and its unique steam processing fixes fine wrinkles.
It is made of a very light fabric, and it shines as if the fabric is wet as the wearer moves.
If the fabric is dyed black, the characteristics will be lost, so we intentionally use only the color [MUD GRAY].
It is not limited to this fabric, but if a fusible interlining is used in sewing, the fabric loses its characteristics, so the hair canvas is used in many places.
This fabric is strong and versatile, so we made 2 types of outer and 1 type of pants.
The fabric made of japanese paper, which is a standard item for spring and summer, has a classical and rich look.
--- We also have japanese paper linen which is popular in spring and summer.
The japanese paper linen material is made in Japan.
This fabric is also characterized by its thickness, ventilation and lightness.
It is also a great feature that the wearer's wrinkles and other changes over time are enjoyable.
In particular, the linen is not dyed to the core of the string, but is dyed in white, so you can enjoy the same aging as denim.
This fabric is also made into 2 types of outer wear and 1 type of pants.
Continuously developed sandblasted fabric. This season, this item has a silky look.
--- We are making sandblasted silk fabric again this season.
The silk material has been processed since 3 years ago.
The silk thread count and texture are sandblasted with different fabrics every time, but the reflectivity of the light is different every time depending on the fabric texture, and the final dyeing condition and finish of the fabric are imaginary, so it contains experimental elements every time.
The item made of silk fabric can be washed with water this time. We only have 2 types of shirts.
The fabric with an eye-catching bold stripe pattern is one of this season's topics.
--- The seersucker fabric was one of the most eye-catching fabrics.
The seersucker material is produced by Faliero Sarti in Italy.
I think the main characteristics of this fabric are the lightness of the fabric and the texture of the surface.
The material is wool and cotton, and the difference in shrinkage of the material is used to make the surface look wrinkled.
The surface is more three-dimensional than regular seersucker fabric.
Both wool and cotton are made of fine count, so the fabric is very light and breathable.
This item is available in 2 types of shirts and 2 types of pants.
This is an 8oz cotton denim that has been cold-dyed in Italy.
--The variegated look of the fabric was impressive, such as the uneven dyeing and shrink processing to produce wrinkles and the used texture.
The fabric has a variety of expressions such as wrinkles caused by uneven dyeing and shrink processing.
A. For fabrics made overseas, we use a low temperature dyeing technique called Tintfred, which is an Italian dyeing technique, for uneven dyeing.
This is a unique dyeing method that allows you to express strong and weak unevenness, and creates an atmosphere different from pigment dyeing.
Regarding the fabric (Denim, etc.) made in Japan, only wefts are dyed by yarn-dyeing, then fabric is dyed unevenly, and the product is finished after undergoing processes such as bio-processing.
There are many processes involved in expressing the color of the fabric, but we are focusing on not only a well-worn look, but also an elegant look.