DEVOA interview
About 2020SS Collection
12.14.2019

A designer interview that focuses on the creator's philosophy behind his creation.

This time about the 2020 SS collection of DEVOA.

We talked with the designer, Mr. Nishida, about the production process and the inside story of the creation.

DAISUKE NISHIDA

Raised in Nagasaki Prefecture.

After working as a sports instructor, he founded the brand in 2005.

Patterns and high-quality manufacturing is based on his own experiences and knowledge, attracting the support of core fashion lovers from both Japan and overseas.

 


 

He is the editor-in-chief, working mainly on the behind the scenes work.

He worked as a stage and advertisement photographer before joining the company in March 2019.

 


 

"--- First, please tell us about this season’s spring and summer collection. "

--- Thank you for your cooperation in the last interview. It was very popular among our customers.

Thank you, too.

It was a good experience for me as well, many have also contacted me and told me that they had read the interview. Not only that, an acquaintance contacted me too and it was a good opportunity for me to warm up to an old friend and also discover new perspectives by looking back on my creative process.

--- Lastly, a customer who saw our last interview asked us to ask you about the brand name.
Could you tell us about the origin of the brand name "DEVOA"?

As for the brand name of DEVOA, it is a coined word combining 2 words, DEVTA (Belief/Thoughts) and DEVTION (Prayer/Dedication/Belief).

I came up with this idea based on the idea of linking the feelings of the producer (Textile and sewing factories) and the receiver (Store Buyers and Customers).

We decided on the brand name because we thought that humans are the only creatures that can connect thoughts and we wanted to share the importance and consideration of ideas created by people.

------ I see! In the interview, you expressed your thoughts and your gratitude to the people around you and the brand name also seems to have that same concept.
Thank you for your answer.

2020 SS Collection and Mr. Nishida. They talked about this collection.

--- First, please tell us about this season’s spring and summer collection.

In the production of the collection, we started from the development of materials this season.

This time, we also use a lot of Italian fabrics but there are also about 50% of materials made in Japan.

The development of the material started about a year ago and we started making it with a focus on the lightness of the material.

We use a method that cannot be used anywhere else to manufacture raw materials.

We also used a new approach to the production of so-called high-grade materials and I think that leads to the expression of the unique material sense.

Also, this is basically a trial-and-error process in our spring and summer collection, we are also conscious of making materials that are light and easy for customers to wash at home.

We designed the fabric to have multiple functions, such as easy to care at home and comfort when wearing, while taking advantage of the properties of the material.

This spring and summer collection features light materials and easy handling.
The soft and light feeling of wearing and the nostalgic atmosphere of the work stand out.

--- Compared to the previous collection, the percentage of english fabrics is increasing. Why is that?

Actually, there is no particular reason.

This is a simple reason that the development of fabrics has always been carried out in parallel in Japan and overseas regardless of the collection being spring summer or autumn winter. In this collection, there just happens to be a large proportion of fabrics from Japan.

From natural materials to the latest materials, he creates his works by understanding the characteristics of each material.

Each fabric has a unique look from texture to color.

--- This time, please tell us the points that you were particular about when you were making the fabrics.

As for the ones made with Faliero Sarti, we chose the ones made with the atmosphere of low-temperature dyeing followed by product washing.

The ones made by Olmetex are more technical.

It is made in each field of specialization, such as the use of scrunched fabric to create an expression on the fabric or the 4-way stretch high-density nylon material.

Regarding those made in Japan, I like to ponder about how we can approach natural materials such as linen and cotton silk through the final processing of the material.

I was quite particular about that.

In particular, the blasting process applied to cotton silk creates an air of DEVOA's own.

The most eye-catching this season is this fabric with a constellation printed.
This is a masterpiece with a special order for FalieroSalty.

The functional material is made of Olmetex fabric.
This jacket is made of a highly stretchable, high-performance material with a weak water-repellent function.

A cotton silk jacket produced in Japan.
This is a work that focuses on the expression of the material with its original processing.

--- Are there any new attempts at this collection?

The process for producing fabrics in Japan is made with a new approach.

It is a special processing that changes the existing processing order, processing type and procedure, and incorporates a method that has never been used before.

We have received a lot of help from the new processing factories that have worked on difficult processing and changing the processing order.

--- What prompted you to change your approach?

I've been experimenting with the ideas I've come up with and the thoughts I've drawn in the corners of my head and that's what inspired me this time.

It's like having a discovery in a cycle of success and failure and trying it out in the next production.

In that sense, this time again, we have a new approach to materials so I think we can make something new that we have never made before.

--- How did you come up with the designs?

Many of the fabrics used in this collection have a relaxed atmosphere, so I thought that the natural and chic clothes would go better with the drape of the fabric rather than the stiff tops so I made the designs based on the works with a simple atmosphere as much as possible.

The pants are made to match the atmosphere so I think the whole collection has a chic sense.

However, the starting point of the creation is to make the best use of the characteristics of the material, so I didn't aim to make a collection like this but I came up with something that suits the characteristics of the material.

Spring/Summer collection with classic elements everywhere The relaxed expression and gentle color expression stood out.

--- Items with designs similar to those of the past are seen sparsely here and there, was that done deliberately?

In this season, there are some designs that are conscious of past products.

Leather jackets, for example, incorporate new techniques and materials based on the characteristics and atmosphere of the previous DEVOA.

I think the shape and size balance of the waist is more anatomical than other patterns.

In order not to make the whole collection too loose or too chic, we made it in a way that brings out the uniqueness of DEVOA.

---I have also notice that there are many colour variations, was that also done intentionally?

With each material, a colour is expressed with its own expression as a result but that does not mean that I was consciously aware of it nor was it done intentionally.

Although the fabric is the same as a colour expression test, some fabrics have different dyeing processes. I learned a lot during those tests.

The items that are available in multiple colors have unique colors based on differences in texture and color.

--- I also noticed the expression of unique colours, what were some of the points of being conscious of the way of expression?

To give you an example of colour representation, the three-piece striped fabric is actually dyed using a special dyeing method.

There are 2 colours, black and navy, but navy expresses the colour in a special way, so actually, the first one I made was navy.

After that, the standard colour, black.

It may be a small part that doesn't show up, but I made it with particular attention to the slight colour difference. Especially after processing, the density of the colour and the reflectance of the light change and the colour to be seen becomes darker or lighter, so a lot of tests were needed.

This season, brightly colored shirts and cut-and-sews were seen here and there.

--- I noticed a wide silhouette on the pants, was that also increased intentionally?

There are many variations in the shape of the pants in this collection, but in fact, the shape of the base of the pants itself and the details have not changed much except the size and angle of the pockets.

As for the design of the pants, I think parachute pants and baggy pants are new for DEVOA as we have not made many items with such wide silhouettes so far.

Wide pants with a unique presence among the various pants of this season.
Featured item with multiple types.

--- The constellation pattern on the shirt has a very strong impact.

This pattern was originally developed for use in a stole by Faliero Sarti and I asked them to let me use the pattern in the fabric.

There are many colour changes from the original one, so we ask them to make it based on green-grey and shade the print with low-temperature dyeing.

The pattern and colour of the fabric were made by special order from Faliero Sarti.

The size of the pattern is large and when cutting the fabric, we do not match the pattern and instruct the cutting so that each item has a different pattern, I think you can enjoy the fact that all the finished products have different patterns.

Fabric used in shirts.
It is a mixture of decadent, strong, and somewhat delicate worldviews.

--- In the last few seasons, it seems like striped fabrics are often used.

In particular, I did not consciously make the decision to make that many striped fabrics.

Each fabric has been produced separately, some completed relatively quickly, others made over a long period of time.

Regarding the development of fabrics, there are some that started at the same time, while others are done at different times so it just so happened that the completion time overlapped.

The various striped patterns come in a wide variety of designs, from contrasting to hickory detail.

--- Personally, I was very curious about the fabric CANAPA STRIPE.

Actually, originally, the reversed side is the front for the fabric design.

When I looked at the designed fabric, I thought it was more beautiful on the reversed side where the thick thread looks like a stitch.

The original design is reversed and the fabric is arranged with the reversed side as the front.

--- The colouring is also really unique.

Personally, I like the balance of colour unevenness and thick thread by the original low-temperature dyeing of Faliero Sarti and the unevenness of the fabric, I feel that it is difficult to make an expression with other designs and materials.

Canapa itself is a raw material which is not legally seen in Japan.

--- Canapa is a kind of hemp, isn't it?

Yes, Canapa is hemp.

There are jute, ramie and linen in hemp, but the canapa used in this cloth has no plant knots and uses thick and relatively uniform threads.

I think this material is also unique to Italy.

One of the characteristics of canapa in particular is that the fabric processing changes various expressions.

The fabric of Kanapa is said to have chosen the side to be used sensitively.
Left is the side used, right is the back side. Originally, both sides were reversed.

The uneven coloring and unevenness of the material are characteristic. worn with a coat or pants or cap.

--- This is the first time you've made sabot shoes

There have been requests for light summer footwear, especially sandals, for a long time. Sandals are simpler to make than other shoes, the method of making them in the shoe factory is inevitably expensive so I made them based on the idea that they should be as simple as possible, as a pair that is easy to wear with bare feet in summer.

--- There is a feature in the arch fit when worn.

When we change the shape of the shoemaker last or the insole in the autumn and winter collection, we were conscious of the fit of the arch of the foot.

The insole at the heel is made of molded cork and it sinks about 4mm when worn.

The half insole is inserted to fix the landing point of the heel during walking and to reinforce the arch.

It might feel a little tight at first but it was designed so that the leather and the gore parts will start to gradually fit better as it starts to become familiar to your foot shape.

This is the first sabo that is perfect for summer. Light appearance and fit are worth seeing. Plenty of colors are available.

---(As I wore the samples) It's true that it feels more comfortable than when I first wore it.

We made them with fitting in mind so that the heels don't come up while walking, even though the shoes don't have heels, if you choose a size that feels a little tight at first, I think you can still wear them comfortably when they start to fit your feet.

SAND BROWN. It is characterized by a faded color that has never existed before.

Loupe necklaces are both handmade. Brass and silver are available.

— Please tell us about how the double-name accessory with iolom.

DEVOA itself is not a brand that makes accessories every season.

When I get the timing and idea to make something that fits my style, I tend to just make it. I often contact Mr. Sakamoto himself and consulted with him while looking at his own work.

The design was instructed by DEVOA, the necklace itself was made by Mr. Sakamoto of iolom and the pendant cover was made by hand. The parts that each person is in charge of are all handmade.

Iolom also makes different types of loupes, so please check them out.

--- Could you tell me about the pattern of this collection?

As for the pattern of the works made this time, there are many designs that were made by so-called subtraction.

Even if you look at the fabric, I thought it would be better to create a chic design and a high-quality chic atmosphere than to create it constructively.

In the past, the main focus of those collection was to build a pattern by combining various elements based on the premise of anatomy but with this collection, we aimed to create a pattern work that looks more natural and beautiful.

In this collection, the pattern was made by changing the point of view.
that we didn't change our fundamental thinking,

--- Do you mean that you have shifted in a simple direction from what you have done so far?

Yes, this time, I made it simple.

The basis of creation is in line with the production philosophy but in the spring and summer seasons, light fabrics are the main focus.

The expression is totally different from the thick fabric used in autumn and winter so we set the amount of fabric to make it look beautiful when worn.

--- What about the reason for developing different fitting of the same item?

As for the items that are made in two styles, regular and loose, we decided to make them simply because we want customers to be able to choose the fit they like. Of course, I think there are cases where you can simply change the size of the item but since there are a lot of suggestions for fitting to the proper size, I made 2 types.

The collection itself is made of tight and loose items, so it would be great if you could enjoy coordinating according to your mood.<

--- What style suggestions do you have for this season?

If the customers who actually wears it can freely enjoy the styling, that would be the best thing for me.

My personal opinion is, for example, how to match colours, especially this time where there are dark yellow and orange colours, I hope they can enjoy using them as accent colours.

When I created the look style, I realized that dirty yellow was paired a lot with black and orange was combined with brown, gray or charcoal to make it look more like a playful colour rather than a solid colour. Do check out the styling photos.

In the look, the coordination with vivid accent color was conspicuous.
Orange and red can also be used effectively with knitted or cut-and-sew items.

Dirty yellow is also used in various combinations. The only way to make you feel like you're not overdoing it is to have a unique color expression.

--- Lastly, do you have any recommended items for this season?

It's not a particular item, but I like cotton silk and tencel fabrics.

Furthermore, we added some steps to the yellow to represent this slightly shaded colour.

I am proud that I could express something that only DEVOA can do and I think it also has a unique feel to it.

Apart from that, I also recommend the three-piece silk cotton fabric.

The processing and the combination are also done in a special process so I was able to express the unique colour and texture.

I am confident that this can only be done by DEVOA so I would like you to pay attention to these items.


2020SS Collection

In parallel with the 2020 SS collection, the new DEVOA project [H.R6] will start next year.

Based on the concept of [Combining design and technology to create visually and sensually pleasing quality products] , Mr. Nishida will use the experience and knowledge he has gained in his previous productions to create works that combine comfortable materials and technologies to realize them in a private space.

The work was produced in collaboration with various technical experts.

It will be produced not only in Japan but also in cooperation with engineers overseas.

FASCINATE is the exclusive distributor for all [H.R6] items.

Mr. Nishida has also explained this directly.

We are planning to publish the outline and details of the work at the same time as the launch next year so please look forward to it.

H.R 6