[Fifth Chapter]
Difference between Japanese and Italian fabrics

“The biggest importance for clothing is fabric”, the depth of the commitment is also evident from the fact that he is involved in the design and development of the fabric.

This time, we talked about the difference between Japanese and Italian fabrics as well as the goodness of them.


Raised in Nagasaki Prefecture.

After working as a sports instructor, he founded the brand in 2005.

Patterns and high-quality manufacturing is based on his own experiences and knowledge, attracting the support of core fashion lovers from both Japan and overseas.

"This is my personal opinion, but I think the importance of fabrics is a big part of the clothing."

--- New fabrics attract attention every season, could you please tell us about your preferences for fabrics?

This is my personal opinion, but I think the importance of fabrics is a big part of the clothing. It's not all about simply using high-quality fabrics, a lot of it is about expression.

As it greatly affects the sewing process, we are constantly developing fabrics regardless of the season.

Currently, some companies in Japan and overseas are conducting trials like the weaving of fabrics, we believe that it is not special for brands to create their own fabrics and find good materials.

I don't produce them with the idea of focusing on the development of the fabric, though, I thoroughly enjoy making it every time.

Typically, it takes around 6 to 8 months to produce it but in the past when I made stretchable Japanese paper, I couldn't cover the thread of Japanese paper well with polyurethane thread, so it took about 2 years.

---Italian fabrics are often used these days, what are the differences from Japanese fabrics?

I think the difference from Japan is overwhelmingly the difference in raw materials.

There are more details.

The raw material are different because the arrangement is completely different.

Japan has its good points and Italy has its good points, so I can't say which is better. They have a different sense.

Of course, the fabrics in Japan are wonderful and we make a lot of fabrics in Japan as well as overseas, I use different ones depending on the balance I am looking for.

---You mentioned that mainly raw materials are different between Italy and Japan, is it because those raw materials are not available in Japan?

I don’t think that they are completely impossible to get but I think that there are not many machine shops that simply produce using other companies threads.

For example, cashmere wool is about 16 microns in length but at famous spinning companies in Italy, virgin wool is usually about 14 microns in length, so many of these textiles are close to cashmere in texture.

The Tasmanian Winton wool I used was about 14 ~ 16 microns.

There are many very good quality Italian virgin wool.

There is a big difference in price and quality between virgin wool and wool.

Japan seems to be able to produce in small lots in detail, and in terms of jersey, Japan seems to have a better balance with prices.

---My image of the 2 is that Japanese ones are uniform while Italian ones are rougher or irregular.

I agree.

For Italian fabrics, there are a lot of irregular ones, in a good way, I think they are appropriate as they are connected to the colours and causes a good chemical reaction.

When I make fabrics in Japan, from the beginning, I don't decide on the details of the fabric to be made and I ask the manufacturers to make it with a certain but vague image.

However, we give detailed instructions on dyeing and finishing of the fabric so we are careful not to make a big differences depending on the fabric.

Currently, we are asking each company to produce better parts here and there.

---In the 19 -20 AW collection, what are some of the fabrics that you really like?

Denim pants made of unevenly dyed yarn.

This was made in Okayama.

The way of colour fading is different from vintage denim.

The way of fading the colour of the thick and thin threads changes, so you can enjoy it very much. The fabric is hard at first, but it will gradually soften to the wearer's liking.

It is characterized by draping, ideality, and wrinkle formation.

In terms of design, it is made with 12 oz but it is washer processed at the fabric stage to make the fabric swell before sewing, so I think it feels like about 13 oz.

Other than this, other fabric production has the same story of making.