D.HYGEN Interview
[Fifth Chapter] About 2021SS Collection
4.26. 2021

This is a designer interview plan that focuses on the creator's ideas and brings you to the back of creation.

This time, D.HYGEN is based in Osaka.

In the fifth and final session, they looked back on the spring and summer collections and talked about the secret stories and thoughts on the current state of the collection.

 

 

D.HYGEN

D.HYGEN has for concept「「STRAINISM」= linked to the concept of tension principle.」under which their products are made with a basic style disassembled and reconstructed.

And making them into "real clothes" that have a very beautiful and unique aspect.

The leather is tailored according to a special technique, to which metal parts are added to create this industrial, cold and hard impression that make the uniqueness of these products.

 

D.HYGEN was established in 2016 by designer Sadakane and pattern maker Tateishi.
After many twists and turns, the two of them, who met in their childhood when the origin of creativity was nurtured, in their student days when they were greatly influenced, and in their professional student days, established a brand and released their first collection.
This is the first time the two of them, who have never shared their profiles, have shared their history.

The theme of the 21 SS collection is [accelerator].
This is a collection look item.

"The scene of the midnight highway and the feeling of tension at that time"

--- 2021 Spring/Summer season theme [Accelerator]
Where did this idea come from?

Sadakane (designer)

I think I came up with this theme about before April after the 20 -21 Fall and Winter exhibition.

At that time, I had many opportunities to go to the craftsmen, factories, and the production area of the fabric to have a meeting, but one time when we had a meeting, I came back late and it was late at night.

There are hardly any cars on the highway in the middle of the night, and the feeling of tension and the anxiety of being in a dark place that I felt when I was traveling by myself are the trigger.

--- I certainly feel uneasy and restless in the dark at night.

Sadakane

I also felt the feeling when I felt the lighting of the scenery tunnel flowing back from the space between the streetlights and the dignified air at night, and the name of the song I was listening to at that time happened to be called Accelerator, and the scene and the image of the song matched, so I thought I would choose this as my next theme.

--- That's where the theme was decided.

Sadakane

Let me see.

I had already decided on this theme, so I decided to consult Tateishi as soon as I got home and go on this theme.

In addition, the collection is based on the details and materials that reflect the tire marks on the road, the texture of rough asphalt, and the atmosphere of lighting.

This is a collection theme that contrasts with past seasons where nature was the theme.

--- Up until now, the theme has been something that exists in nature, but this time, the theme is mainly artificial. Is there any reason for setting the theme of the match?

Tateishi (pattern maker)

For the past three seasons, we have produced this item with a seasonal concept that expresses a sense of tension in nature.

I made it with the idea of setting a season theme first and then making a break in three seasons, so in that sense, there might be a point where natural things should be finished once and then.

However, as I decide the theme and produce, if there are changes in me little by little and there are things that I think are interesting in the future, I would like to do without worrying too much about such division.

--- Up until now, the theme has been something that exists in nature, but this time, the theme is mainly artificial. Is there any reason for setting the theme of the match?

Sadakane

This 21 SS collection has made items with a more active image than before.

For example, jackets and pants give an impression of movement, and backpacks are easy to understand in that sense.

The design itself reflects such an image of the item.

We also call leather jackets riders jackets.

For example, I wore it when I rode on a motorbike on the highway, and I was conscious of such a situation in other items such as pants.

This is not limited to this season, but in the production of the work, the theme was chewed down from various angles and "how to incorporate it into the work" was considered.

This theme also includes our feelings about the current situation.

In this situation, where the novel COVID-19 is spreading around the world and negative things are overflowing, I would like to break through the current situation by not stopping the challenge of new things such as new materials and pattern development.

This original graphic combines multiple motifs such as tire marks left on the road and asphalt dirt.

--- You said that you should think about the theme from various points of view, but the color and print were fresh in the sense of stepping into it.

Sadakane

Let me see.

We are producing more bright colors such as light gray than before, and we are also producing charcoal with lighter tones than before.

Also, this season I tried printing.

Until now, it has been expressed in the processing and weaving of the fabric, but basically most of them are plain ones, and we didn't do patterned ones, especially patterned ones with colors, but this season we have adopted them.

--- What image did you come up with?

Sadakane

When I first came up with the theme, I was driving through a tunnel on the highway, and I wanted to express the image of concrete that was dirty with exhaust gas that I saw at that time.

This is a combination of skid marks from tires, fear that might scare humans, and the grainy concrete inside the tunnel with white lines like crosswalks.

Up until now, such things have been expressed with the texture of the fabric, but this season, as a new effort, they are expressed with a print.

Sadakane

Other than that, it incorporates a little color that changes in the scenery in the morning, in the daytime, at dusk and at night.

Thinly added purple and orange colors are inspired by that.

The reddish purplish image is the image of dusk and the orange one is the image of sunrise, but rather than using it extensively, I use it while looking at the balance of the accent.

Slub denim with a fairly thick slub side folded into the weft.
The image is of an old asphalt surface.

Leather with an image of concrete.

--- What kind of expression is there in the fabric?

Sadakane

This original slub denim made in Okayama is made of a representative material that has a rather thick slub side folded into the weft and the thick part of the slub is taken out as a pattern.

This was made with the image of the surface of old asphalt, but we are satisfied with the finish and we like it very much.

I think I could express my initial inspiration well.

This was made in Okayama, but the manufacturer of the fabric introduced the material to me, and I thought I could express the bumpy look of asphalt by using this, so I made samples repeatedly.

I have a lot of feelings for this product because it was made in Okayama where I come from, and I was able to make a new one with all the craftsmen involved, and it gave me confidence for the future.

--- Since it is spring and summer, it also uses a very light material.

Sadakane

In recent years, especially in spring and summer, the temperature has been fluctuating so the time to wear light outerwear is short, and I think there are many people who don't wear too heavy items, so this season was focused on making lighter and breathable materials than the past spring and summer collections.

For example, the dobby minimal stripe fabric used in the bomber jacket is one of them.

This is a blend of linen and cupra with a pretty fine pitch dobby weave pattern, but it is firm and firm, and it doesn't look so light from the look, but when you put it through the sleeves, you can feel that it is light and breathable.

As for the carbon coating material, the material itself is light because a carbon coating is applied to a fairly thin nylon material.

--- But the "weight" of D.HYGEN is expressed.

Sadakane

The weight and decadent look are the parts that we want to express and think are cool, so we always put them somewhere in the work.

The coating is the same, and the concrete leather is the brightest ever, and this also comes from the way the white lines get dirty and the dirt of soot on the concrete.

Leather is a material that we attach importance to, and I think we could express the atmosphere well with leather.

He says the look shooting is the best he's ever done.

--- This look was impressive with a different atmosphere from before.

Sadakane

Up until now, we had decided the image of the look shooting by ourselves, but for this look shooting, we asked an outside person to direct the shooting.

Last time, we shot the look in the forest, but we couldn't express everything by ourselves, and there was a fear that the expression would be fixed, so we asked someone who is doing graphic design of my acquaintance.

This person is also in charge of the graphic used in this work.

I took pictures in the middle of the night at a dam deep in the mountains.

There is also a look in which the image source of the graphic is taken in front of the wall.

This is the place I went to a few years ago, and there are so many so-called "hashiriya", and I thought it would be cool if I could get in the light of the car that ran away.

The atmosphere was very good from the time I went to the locahun, so I had a feeling that I would be able to do something good, but I'm glad it worked out as I expected.

--- It's a look that expresses the season theme objectively.

Sadakane

Everything from the meeting to the shooting was very fresh and fun, and I am proud that I was able to do what I was satisfied with.

It was taken in a limited time before it got dark in the evening, so I picked up the light from the passing car, lit the flashlight and adjusted it with the light of the car.

The look of the tailored jacket is done by car lighting.

Some of them adopted the composition that the director thought, and in that sense, I had a good experience.

I think this look could express the theme more deeply than before, such as the composition that we couldn't think of alone.

Etienne, who models every time, liked it so much that she wanted me to use it for her own promotion.

After deciding on a theme, I will make a sample, and at the end, I think I will have a break by shooting a look, but the production will continue from the next season, so I would like to make a style that has a story and the flow will continue.

A new way of expression that is always sought.

Construct a new pattern considering material characteristics and design.
It became an effort to widen the brand.

--- Are patterns working on new things?

Tateishi

As it has a strong image of being active from a theme point of view, there are some items that can be worn relaxed with a looser pattern than usual.

Light tops such as shirts may be easy to understand.

And the carbon coating series is the same.

However, since I wanted to make the silhouette sharp, I didn't make it too loose even for an active item, so I made it just enough to feel when wearing it.

--- D. HYGEN has a slim image.

We are creating a new pattern this time as well, but we do not want to lose the things and image at the base, so we worked on it as an addition to what we have been doing up until now.

Up until now, the design and the silhouette had strongly come out with a solid image, but this time, the silhouette balance of the appearance has the same impression as before, and the sense of the size is more relaxed than before, which I paid considerable attention to in the pattern production.

When I simply made it bigger, everything changed, so I was able to experience making something different while trying not to make it that way, and I noticed a lot of good things about the future.

There are also some items made using this experience in fall and winter, so please look forward to it.

It is always a search to have the breadth of expression within the scope of philosophy.
This season, there is a distinct difference in silhouette and color expression.

--- The keyword seems to be "lightness", but did they make any changes to the design?

Sadakane

To put it simply, the silhouette is a little loose.

Considering the relationship with the material, it is made so that you can feel a little comfortable while keeping the atmosphere up to now.

Also, it is hard to understand, but for example, in the leather jacket for spring and summer, the thickness is changed for each part in consideration of the mobility, and the mobility and lightness are improved without changing the appearance.

In that respect, it is finished lighter than conventional leather.

In order to make the tailored jacket light and add a change to the silhouette, the way of putting on the pad has been changed a little.

I like it very much because it has the silhouette and comfort that I had imagined, and we are making tailored jacket as a signature, but I am proud that it is the best masterpiece so far.

Sadakane

This is one of my favorite works in this season including the texture.

This work using jacquard stripes of linen uses not only the pattern but also the front and back of the fabric at random, but I put a lot of effort into matching the pattern and incorporating the twist into the design.

I made the sample myself, but I did it again and again many times and it took a long time, but I was able to make a satisfactory result.

--- It is our strength that we can verify it by ourselves.

Sadakane

Our works have many parts and complicated patterns, so this kind of pattern takes time especially.

In addition, the silhouette of the standard curve denim pants is maintained every time, but the darts and changeover are changed every season, so it was hard to "express the same thing with different techniques".

Thank you very much for the beautiful shape of the sewing craftsmen who made it and for responding to our requests.

--- I had an impression that there was more variety in taste than before due to changes in the silhouette and the use of colors.
What do you think about this area?

Tateishi

We are trying to expand the range of expression within our philosophy.

This spring and summer, there are many items with a loose feel depending on the texture and silhouette.

As for short pants, I was able to express a little different from my previous image such as making it the thickest baggy silhouette, so I think the range of the brand has expanded.

I feel that we should not change our underlying philosophy, continue the image we have created, and at the same time be too tied to it.

It may sound contradictory at first glance, but we need to evolve as a brand, so in that sense, I want to expand the range of expressions.

The raison d'etre of our existence as a result of the coronavirus disaster.

The impact of the coronavirus has had a particularly strong impact on production.

--- As the Paris exhibition was cancelled and there was no place to present, how was the presentation made?

Sadakane

This time, it was presented in the form of an online exhibition.

We sent samples of fabrics and materials of works to our clients, and many of them asked if we could see the real thing.

There is nothing we can do about it in this situation, but I keenly felt that there are many things that cannot be understood without seeing and touching the real thing.

On the positive side, though, we've found that online remote is a great place to make presentations, so it's a very useful option.

--- I think the current state of society was affected by the production of this collection.

Sadakane

I think it has gradually recovered compared to the past, but the production environment and the situation at the production site have been very popular.

I have heard from various people, but there was no one who was not influenced by the fabric maker or the sewing craftsman.

Some factories were closed temporarily, some were closed more, and some were closed.

On the other hand, in this situation, there were people who suggested that we try new things, and thanks to that, we were able to create new things.

I think this would not have happened if this had been a business-only, telephone-only relationship, as we had built a relationship where we could help each other even during difficult times.

It was good that we kept talking face to face.

--- Does your work express your feelings about the current environment?

Sadakane

I've never been aware of it, but I think it's reflected a little.

In this collection, there are many active items including military details, and the world was in a state of confusion due to the novel coronavirus from March to April when I started making the collection, so if I think about it now, I think I probably had an image that I had to survive in that situation.

Tateishi

In terms of our attitude toward production, this spring and summer in particular, I think the collection was a reaction to the circumstances surrounding us.

We had no idea what would happen tomorrow from February to April when we were making the collection, but we ourselves felt that making things to accommodate the stagnant situation was a betrayal of our customers, so we tried our best to do what we could.

--- How do you want the world surrounding fashion to change in the future?

Sadakane

Ideally, everything should go back to what it was before the coronavirus, but we don't know if it will, or how long it will take.

But I hope that it will be a world where you can enjoy fashion more than now.

It's fun to go out wearing clothes that you think are cool no matter how old you are, and I think every man in particular has that feeling.

When that happens, we will continue to create works so that we can fully enjoy it.

Tateishi

The living environment has changed, and I think the effects will continue to appear in various forms.

Of course, the balance between business and creation is important, but we want to make sure that brands like us don't become too business oriented.

I want to create products that are fun and inspiring in times like this, and I feel that this way of thinking is one way to sustain the development of the brand and this industry.

I think I've realized once again that our fashion brand's job is to make customers happy and move them.

That's the only thing we can do, so we will continue to create cool collections for people who feel that way.


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