This is a designer interview project that focuses on the idea of the creator and focuses on the background of creation.
This time, it is about the 2021-22AW collection of DEVOA.
We spoke with designer Nishida about the production process and behind the scenes stories.
Raised in Nagasaki Prefecture.
After working as a sports instructor, he founded the brand in 2005.
Patterns and high-quality manufacturing is based on his own experiences and knowledge, attracting the support of core fashion lovers from both Japan and overseas.
He is the editor-in-chief, working mainly on the behind the scenes work.
He worked as a stage and advertisement photographer before joining the company in March 2019.
A piece from the official look. Expressive materials are put together with unique layering.
--- What is the outline of the 21-22AW collection?
In the 21 -22 AW collection, the design work started while mixing the military taste a little.
In terms of material development, I started to make fabric half a year before I designed it, and I think the use of fabric that fits the collection this time and the fabric that fits the timing has become more beautiful, and the color and texture of the fabric formed the image this time.
I think that changing the pattern balance is also a big factor.
---This collection also produces various fabrics, but how did you incorporate the fabric's features into the design?
It is very difficult to describe the relationship between fabric and design.
There are many things on Theory Street, and there are many things that I would like to try without Theory.
What I am thinking about is just the thickness and softness of the dough, and the rest is the instantaneous atmosphere after the dough is finished, and I often move with feeling including rethinking after a while.
It is very difficult to write about various things that are moving by feeling.
--- Are there any features of the fabric used in this collection, or stories in the middle of production?
Personally, I have a strong desire for all of them, so it is difficult to narrow down to 1, but I think the fabric of the 2021 FW collection is made with attention to the quality of the thread.
This item is made from the virgin wool produced by Faliero Sarti in Italy which has been continuously produced. In particular, this item is made from the mix of the virgin wool and the canapa material which is unique to Italy to create a vintage look.
This item is made from the gaba material made from the high quality yarn called structure wool.
In Japan, I think the Jacquard tweed material made of plenty of silk produced in Kyoto and Tango textile production areas is finished as a material representative of the 2021-22AW collection.
Each material is very expensive, but I don't think you can see it in many other materials.
The 21-22 AW collection features strong pieces based on military taste.
--- Is there anything you have been working on or new in this collection?
The fabric we are developing as usual is only commercialized according to the timing.
As the unit price of our company products is expensive, I will always do my best to try my best even if I don't tell the customers.
This time, we are taking on the same challenges as always.
--- Which fabric did Nishida personally like or enjoy the design in this collection?
As for the design and pattern, it is made in the company every season, so many things are natural, but it is difficult to choose the fabric you like when you think about the fabric manufacturing.
The same is true for memorable fabrics, since it is always important to communicate with the manufacturer when it comes to fabric production, and the communication with the manufacturer and the contents of the consultation with that person are different and become memorable experiences.
If you completely ignore my personal feelings, I think the fabric of Faliero Sarti in Italy has a quality and atmosphere that is unfortunately impossible to produce in Japan, and it is finished into a wonderful fabric that can not be changed, and I also think that the quality of the whole fabric of Tango fabric, including the unit price of the product, is finished so that I can assert that it can be seen only in DEVOA.
--- Please tell us about the differences and features of the fabrics made of wool in Japan and Italy.
This can be said for natural fibers in general, but if I were to answer strictly about wool fabrics, virgin wool produced by Salti in Italy and wool fabrics produced in Japan are different even if they are produced with the same yarn count.
Of course, there is a difference in unit price, but there are many things that bother us every time, including the quality of the yarn (yarn fineness), even in a good way.
In Italy, it is often better to let the atmosphere of the arrangement work itself out without detailed design, and in Japan, washable wool, which is often expensive in Italy, can be produced as a material with high quality and good balance of fabric unit price.
As for the expression of Japanese and overseas fabrics, they are basically different because of the differences in fabric structure, raw materials, and arrangement methods. As for the characteristics, we use each fabric according to its suitability to the design.
This season, the brand continues to develop high quality materials made of virgin wool and silk in Japan and abroad.
--- For this collection, we are also producing fabrics from Tango textile in Kyoto.
How did you decide to produce them?
This fabric was first introduced to me by a friend of mine.
It took me as long as it takes to go from Tokyo to Kyushu to get to the weaving factory in Tango, Hyogo Prefecture, but I was greeted by an encounter that blew everything away.
The fabric for this project was made at one of the two we consulted with.
The other one will be made for my overseas exhibition next year.
--- What kind of fabric did you produce specifically?
For this project, we produced silk tweed and silk jacquard.
For the silk tweed, I asked to create a different atmosphere based on the fabric that DEVOA produced when it held its first exhibition in Tokyo.
The fabric is 100% silk and all the yarn colors are black, but by changing the shapes of seven different yarns, we were able to change the reflectivity of the light and mix matte and shiny yarns in the same black.
The quality of the fabric was better than I had imagined, and the design was as simple as possible so as not to kill the assertiveness of the fabric.
Silk tweed is created by blending raw silk with different colored yarns to create a complex structure.
The same silk jacquard is also being produced.
This one is made of raw silk mixed with different colored yarns (angora, nylon, etc.) to create a complex structure.
Even if you wear it with some frequency, the durability of the fabric means that it will not lose its atmosphere as it ages, making it a product that you can use for a long time.
As with silk tweed, the design of the garment is kept as simple as possible so as not to interfere with the atmosphere of the fabric.
The main features of this fabric are its dry touch and fluffy feel, but you don't have to worry about pilling, and it has strong anti-static properties.
This is a problem for us, but the fabric width of both fabrics is narrow and the unit price of the fabric is very high, resulting in fabrics that we feel we have no choice but to turn a blind eye to the fabric cost in relation to the product.
The atmosphere of the fabric is very good and high quality, and I really want to sell the fabric at a very high price, but I have a strong desire to let more people know about this kind of fabric.
The same weaver also produces stoles.
This one is made of 100% silk, but all cotton is used, so you can experience the beauty of natural fibers.
The warp yarn is dyed black and the weft yarn is dyed charcoal to create a three-dimensional effect when worn.
Simply wrapping it around you will help keep you warm and add an important touch to your styling.
This silk jacquard uses different colored yarns to create a deep hue.
---There were also rugged fabrics such as ramie rayon, 100% Japanese paper, and sulfur-dyed twill, which contrasted with the softness of wool.
Could you tell us about these fabrics?
The ramie rayon fabric was made in the Bishu region.
We asked them to increase the weight of the fabric to create a heavy atmosphere to suit our fall and winter products.
As the fabric ages, it will develop into a medium-weight fabric with a soft and beautiful drape.
The more you wear it, the more the fabric will gain its vintage look.
The washi denim fabric is made by a weaving company that I have been working with for about 12 years.
I've used washi denim many times in the past, but I changed the bio-processing process and experimented a lot.
As always, the fabric has antibacterial properties and lightness, while allowing you to experience the softening and aging characteristic of Japanese paper.
For the sulfur-dyed twill, we asked Kojima, a denim production area in Japan, to produce the fabric.
The weaver told us that there are only two places in Japan that can produce sulfurized dyed fabric.
Sulfurization dyeing of products is also scarce, but that of fabric is even less.
The feature of fabric sulfurization dyeing is that the color fading is less casual than that of finished products, and the wearer can enjoy the color fading slowly according to their individual life characteristics.
The products themselves are bio-processed after being made into finished products to reduce the color fading in the initial stage and to make the products themselves softer.
Ramy rayon with a heavy surface. The coarse raised texture is also a point of interest.
--- In the previous autumn/winter collection, you mentioned that you focused on "the stress that static electricity gives to the human body," and the fabric made from moso bamboo is used again this time.
What are the characteristics of this new fabric?
Of course, we are working on the fabric with the theme of the effects of stress on the human body.
This time, the fabric using bamboo is made of jersey.
The blend is 50% moso bamboo and 50% cotton.
I have personally made sheets with this fabric and finally reached the point of production after several people had used it for allergy tests.
It took more than two years from the initial thread production to the completion of the actual fabric.
The actual fabric was very soft to the touch and maintained its texture even after being dried in a drum-type home washing machine.
This time, it was used as a lining for a coat, but we are planning to produce a new type of loungewear using only this fabric for another brand, H.R 6, so please look forward to it.
We are currently working on the development of a new fabric for the 22-23FW season, and we are expecting to release it in the next issue. Please look forward to this as well.
A look that successfully mixes the textures and colors of the materials.
--- What changes have you made to the silhouette and size balance of the fall/winter collection?
I think the major change in the silhouette is that we made the armholes larger than before to allow for layering.
The armholes were also changed for other outerwear, so the outerwear was also expanded.
We have also changed the size balance in detail, so that you can wear the same size as before without expressing a loose fit by wearing a larger size, including cut-and-sewn and outerwear, so please be careful when choosing your size.
If you want to wear a loose fit, you will need to choose the right size.
--- What kind of suggestions do you have for the styling of the look for fall and winter?
It's a personal suggestion, but I focused on the idea that people can enjoy fashion while layering.
There is nothing difficult to think about, and you can easily change the atmosphere of the garment by simply wearing it with a little consideration of the wearer's height (length).
Combining different materials or using the same color with a few accessories to create a gap in a good way will make the wearer feel casually adorned.
The armholes are slightly larger than before to allow for layering.
--This time, you used female models for the look. What are your intentions behind this?
I think it's rare for domestic stores to use female models, but we have received reports that there are opportunities for female customers to purchase our products at overseas stores.
In fact, the balance of the body pattern has been slightly altered from men's specific sizing, so I myself have rediscovered that women with a certain height can also wear it in style.
So, as an experiment, I took photos of women wearing men's sizes.
The response from overseas stores was very positive.
※You can view the 21-22 AW lookbook on the DEVOA official website.
Female models were also used for this look. For this look, a female model was used, and she was photographed wearing a men's size as an experiment.