[Fourth Chapter]
Commitment to sewing and the relationship with the factory

Works of DEVOA are produced by careful sewing.

The attitude and mindset that does not allow any compromisations in quality is well shown on the sewing surface.

The complicated pattern of DEVOA puts in the work skilled craftsmen make with the careful sewing.

There is a shared consciousness between the relationship between DEVOA and the sewing factory.


Raised in Nagasaki Prefecture.

After working as a sports instructor, he founded the brand in 2005.

Patterns and high-quality manufacturing is based on his own experiences and knowledge, attracting the support of core fashion lovers from both Japan and overseas.

"It is not difficult to simply sew items but I think it is difficult to sew with quality and consideration."

---The sewing of DEVOA items are very detailed, what are the difficulties you have faced?

Considering the price range I think it is natural to be particular about the sewing.

The most challenging thing was that it was difficult to balance the sewing in complicated patterns at first, so I put a lot of effort into the sewing factory.

Even now, we always think about the compatibility with the fabric and the balance between the seamsters and the products.

---Have there been any changes in sewing from the beginning?

I think the major change in DEVOA is the sewing.

Specifically, the factory where sewing is done has changed.

Currently, there are several places that are specialised in sewing and it is a big change that we have met a factory that can form a partnership exclusive to DEVOA and has high but strict technical guidance.

I feel that the quality is higher than before.

We are very grateful to the garment factory workers who are cooperating with us.

In order to embody my selfishness in all my works, there were failures and hardships, but it is filled with the thoughts of the factory workers.

--- In particular, what are you working on exclusively?

Specifically speaking, outerwear.

The outerwear and jacket related items are especially high in price so of course, detailed work has to be done.

The seamsters of the outer garments have been sewing high-class prêt-à-porter products for a long time, so they can handle requests for both hand-sewing and sewing machines.

For complicated patterns and high-class fabrics, sewing techniques are definitely required.

I am reminded a lot that it is not just simply sewing beautifully.

--- You have built such a relationship and bond in terms of manufacturing your items.

It is not difficult to simply sew items but I think it is difficult to sew with quality and consideration.

I think the only point is whether we can continue the relationship that allows us to think about the sewing side and the client side.

Now, the factory has a strong connection with us so it is not just simple production line work, all the processes are done by one or two people, so it is very important that we can see the faces of the people who are sewing and they can also see ours as the receiving end.

In relationships like these, for example, if you make a mistake that you didn’t notice at first, you might say, "I made a little mistake but it's not a big deal.”, for us, it is very important that we do not have such a mindset.

Our customers spend their money on our products, I think the products need to be made with that in consideration so all communication related to the quality of the product is important.

---That sounds like an ideal relationship of working between the 2 sides

It is very difficult to build a relationship in which everyone is moving in the same direction, when the factory comes up with their own proposals, for example, they will sometimes tell me, "If you want it to look or be like this, how about trying out this way?”, I feel ecstatic as I can feel the waves moving in the same direction of wanting to make the best product as much as possible.

It really is difficult to build a bond where everyone is moving in the exact same direction.

Of course, I know it is a business and I want to pay them a high amount, but relationships like this are not something you can just use money to buy and receive.

---It is very important that you have the same intentions with each other.

That's right.

We value communication on a daily basis in order to maintain high-quality manufacturing.

If I put myself in the customer's point of view, I think would feel even happier to know that the item I am purchasing was made with such a relationship and care, I would then also cherish it more.

We do not have many opportunities to meet customers directly but it is important to put yourself in the customer's shoes and question if you are happy with the item or not.

---Have you had any difficulties with the 19-20 AW collection, for example?

An example would be the coat and blouson printed with discharge printing.

Discharge prints are manually printed in 7 layers and the plates are manufactured by parts at the cutting stage, they are made with very difficult techniques and time-consuming prints.

If the sewing fails, the parts will need to be redone from printing, so sewing mistakes are absolutely unacceptable.

In addition to that, the fabric is made of a 4-way stretch fabric, sufficient release time and type of sewing thread to prevent the sewing from pilling is needed, the number of needles and careful sewing is important as well.

I am really grateful to the factory craftsmen who were able to respond to these requests.